
By now (and by “now” I mean “five months from now,” since I’m sure no one checks this blog for updates anymore), you’ve probably heard about the New York Times’ review of Guy Fieri’s new restaurant in Times Square. If you’re just joining us (the conscious), let me sum it up for you: they hated it. As Stephen astutely pointed out to me, it’s basically a takedown in the form of SNL’s “REALLY!?!” segment from Weekend Update.
The review addresses Guy throughout, essentially questioning him as to why this abomination even exists. “Hey, did you try that blue drink, the one that glows like nuclear waste?” they ask. “The watermelon margarita? Any idea why it tastes like some combination of radiator fluid and formaldehyde?”
It goes on: “When you hung that sign by the entrance that says, WELCOME TO FLAVOR TOWN!, were you just messing with our heads?”
Hey, New York Times, feel free to let me know if you have any other questions about Guy Fieri’s restaurant. No, I haven’t been there, but I did once go to the Elephant Bar in Concord, so I’m sure I can tell you anything you want to know.
Here’s a question for you, Pete Wells. What the fuck were you expecting? Do you know who Guy Fieri is? Have you seen his show or even his face? Were you thinking you’d walk into a 500-seat restaurant that slathers its sandwiches in something called “Donkey sauce” and be served a deconstructed apricot clafoutis with a glass of lightly chilled sauternes? Anyone who’s ever heard of Guy Fieri knows that the man is the walking embodiment of our collective worst regrets about that one night at Señor Frog’s in 1996. To expect anything more of his restaurant is just ludicrous.
Also? The place is in MOTHERFUCKING TIMES SQUARE. What was the last Times Square restaurant you reviewed, Pete? Red Lobster? The Olive Garden? The people who eat in Times Square are the people who WANT to eat shitty food. “Guy-talian nachos” may sound scary to us coastal elites, but for everyone else in America, it’s far less scary than going to a strange city and trying some ethnic restaurant they’ve never heard of from the tee-vee. People don’t visit the big city for new experiences. They do it to shop at M&M’s World and buy the same crap they can buy at home. I know because that’s exactly what we did on family vacations when I was a kid. The wait for a table at that Olive Garden can be a killer, by the way.
Yes, I know Pete Wells is probably well aware of all this and was just looking forward to shooting wasabi-encrusted fish in a tequila-soaked barrel. Well here’s some advice for you, Pete: shake two ounces each of orange juice and pineapple juice with one ounce of light rum and a dash of Donkey sauce, strain it into a highball glass filled with ice, and top with some freshly grated nutmeg. Now take a sip of your Donkey Punch and hope that it KNOCKS SOME FUCKING SENSE into you. Doing a review in bad faith is stupid. I don’t complain that ice cream is too cold, and you shouldn’t get paid to tell us that shitty restaurant is shitty.
Before you get the wrong idea, let me be clear that I am in no way defending Guy Fieri or his glorified TGI Friday’s. He, along with Paula Deen, Rachel Ray, and those two racist caricatures make me think that the Food Network is actually part of a secret government program aimed at solving the obesity epidemic by making us hate food. Think about it: every time you see delicious food on the screen, it’s paired with a personality so stomach-turningly annoying that it will eventually make you associate food with being nauseated and you’ll never eat again. I had to stop watching Barefoot Contessa before Ina Garten’s fake laugh and Valium-voice turned me against ridiculously gigantic portion sizes. Nice try, Food Network, but you’ve got to get up pretty early in the morning to keep me from overeating. Or just put Donkey sauce on everything. Either one.
Not only I check this blog, as I also fucking subscribe it.
You make very good points. I was conflicted as I read it, thinking on the one hand “why are you bothering to review this restaurant” and on the other “hunh-hunh-hunh, he say funny thing.” I ended up coming down on the side of funny, which maybe shouldn’t be enough to justify however many column inches in the New York Times, but whatever; for me it’s just the 10 bajillionth Funny Thing I Read on the Internet.
And besides, given the obscene amounts of money they’re asking for these donkey sauced concoctions, maybe it’s worth warning someone off who might not realize what they’re getting into? I dunno, some poor soul might wander in thinking “hey, famous chef (I forget why I’ve heard of him) does trashy American food? This could be good.”
It’s true, the review does make a point that the place isn’t just stupid but also really bad. I’m just bitter because one time when I was 17 I ate at Leo Lindy’s and paid $2500 for a slice of terrible cheesecake. But it was a formative experience that taught me an important lesson about tourist traps.
ALSO HI!
Your writing continues to be sharp, observant and funny as shit. Still really miss your work on UT which used to be a highlight of my day. Please post more here or find another gig so we can all enjoy more of your twisted insights.
http://www.businessweek.com/articles/2012-12-10/guy-fieri-s-restaurant-ironic-dining-mecca
Sigh.
Please come back Jessica!